Coals Notes

Aside from Cricket and calling each other “broo,” the national pastime of South Africa has got to be the braai. All over the country we've sensed much buzz over this near-sacred ritual, and it seems to be a significant pillar in SA's national identity, an activity for all South Africans from all backgrounds to enjoy. Naturally I wanted to learn more, and of course partake in a braai myself.

Though once I got the gist of all that a braai is, I thought, guys, what the heck, that is just a barbeque, people do that all over the world, your national pastime might as well be 'doing the dishes.' And that is mainly true– for those who are unfamiliar with the term braai, a local can say 'it's a barbeque,' and things are settled. But Alanna and I have since participated in a couple braais ourselves and, while there is meat and flame and beer involved, I've picked up on a few distinctions.

Firstly, South Africans are rigourous meat-eaters, and they appreciate their meat unadorned. Both times we braaied there was nary a salad in sight, and in Knysna when a fellow traveller suggested tossing a few veggies on the grill, he was quietly ridiculed behind his back (though he did win in the end, much to Alanna and mine's quiet delight). A good braai is either solo meat or meat wrapped in a plain white roll, garnish and condiment-free. At the Knysna braai this is the only picture I managed to snap:

While hamburgers are widely consumed at restaurants, a beef patty is not for the braai. The protein of choice here is the boerwors, pronounced boor-vors, in the best Dutch accent you can muster (and not to be confused with the Boer War, fought between British colonialists and Dutch farmers between 1815 and 1914, slightly bloodier). It is a long, spiral sausage, well-seasoned, and made of pork, though I'm no expert.

Also, South Africans are passionate advocates of charcoal grilling, and wood is best. In every town we saw signs for 'braaiwood,' and the two in which we participated were over wood fires. Gas seems to be the preferred choice for indoor stoves, but a South African with any dignity wouldn't be caught dead using it for their precious meat.

The site of our second braai, In Port St. John's

Clint, our Braai-bassador at Amopondo Backpackers, gets things started.

Braai number two. We couldn't find any rolls at the supermarket so we used whole wheat loaf-bread instead. Tasted fine!

Finally, a noticeable difference between our bbq and the South African Braai – and the one I most appreciate – is the acknowledgement that such a social ritual exists within the braai at all. While Canadians and Americans gather for a barbeque to chew, chat and have a cold one, not giving it a second thought, South Africans take pride in recognizing the active cultural role such a ritual plays: the socialization and sharing that takes place, and a surrender to the feasting instinct that has manifested itself since the first human stepped out of the Great Rift Valley and speared an antelope. While a barbeque is an outdoor meal with fire, the braai is a candid prayer to the joy of food and community – and something worth ditching the relish for.